Sacai Fall 2025: Wrapped in Tenderness

B. Darlin Cowl Neck Spaghetti Strap Lace Up Back Dress

There is always something so joyful about Sacai runway shows, because they make you think about the possibilities of playing with your clothes. To that end, for fall 2025 Chitose Abe continued her exploration of gesture in clothing, giving everyday garments tender emotion, and blending the conceptual with the commercial with ease. “The wearer is the master of the shape that her clothes make, creating new forms of familiar clothing archetypes, while suggesting both strength and vulnerability, comfort and protection,” she wrote in the show notes. And you could see it in the cocooning shapes, with heavyweight military jackets, mannish blazers and down parkas sliced and fused into blanketing layers, or inset with fringe knit panels and wrapped around the body like blankets for a comforting effect. Sheer chiffon or paisley silk scarves fused with blazers were chic and wearable, inviting experimentation with scarves in one’s own wardrobe. Sacai’s signature nylon parka was given a redo, draped at the shoulders almost like a hug. Abe added sporty-edgy touches throughout, per usual, like zip front cinched vests, side-zip trouser skirts and bias-cut leather biker skirts. You May Also Like Embellishment came in unexpected places — sequins bursting from the legs of cargo pants, faux feathers flocking an anorak, faux shearling trims on a chunky knit cocooning dress and on flat shoes. There were also “photo stitch” embroideries of sensual eyes and lips from the the work of Man Ray incorporated onto fur minidresses, button-down shirts and T-shirts that will surely become collectors’ items. When asked backstage why Man Ray, Abe answered, “He is the artist who captured the most beautiful women, and there is a story behind each of them.” Spoken like a designer who always remembers who a woman is inside.

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